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John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only about sixty percent is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are released each season in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains a defining name in English shoemaking.
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